This is so accurate. I love it. I learned how to surf three years ago and have experienced everything you put in here; the exhaustion of paddling, nature's NetiPot, being smacked on the head by my board... And now I'm wondering if I was slightly concussed and never took the time to diagnose it? Anyway, I'm fine. Great piece, can't wait for the next one!
This is so accurate. I love it. I learned how to surf three years ago and have experienced everything you put in here; the exhaustion of paddling, nature's NetiPot, being smacked on the head by my board... And now I'm wondering if I was slightly concussed and never took the time to diagnose it? Anyway, I'm fine. Great piece, can't wait for the next one!
Kelly! Thank you so much! Maybe we can catch some waves together soon :)
Thanks for the description of your surfing experience. I’ve never done it but love watching people surf. It seems so meditative.
After your story, I appreciate the strength required.
If you want to be inspired to get back on the board (horse), here is a sample reel that pops up for me on FB https://www.facebook.com/reel/1353695845260573?fs=e&s=TIeQ9V&mibextid=OF0Fxe
Lol thank you! Meditative and exhausting indeed
"But I’m excited so he’s excited." - Just keep telling yourself that and keep believing it 😀
Lol I do believe it!
Ah, the beauty of youth